Home Energy Efficiency Guide

Your home can be more energy efficient. It might as easy as operating an appliance more efficiently. Or, the replacement of an appliance with one that’s more energy efficient.

If you don’t find the information you need about the purchase or the operation of a certain appliance, call the MID Energy Services staff at (209) 526-7339 or e-mail us at energyservices@mid.org. We’re here to help our customers!

Heating & Cooling Systems Improve Efficiency of Existing Appliances

Terms You Might Want to Know

Heating and Cooling Systems

See also: Rebate information

The comfort provided by central heating and air conditioning systems don’t come cheap. Heating and cooling can add up to about half your yearly energy bill. Use the heating and cooling systems less and you could see dollar savings.

Shop and Compare

Are you replacing an older unit?

• Seek bids from at least four qualified heating and cooling contractors.
• Request bids on both standard and high efficiency units.
• Compare efficiency ratings of the units, what the job involves and costs.
• You should expect to pay more for more efficient units. The difference in cost can be recovered in a fairly short time through energy savings. (rebate link)

Take Care

Proper maintenance and operation keeps the unit work at maximum efficiency.

1. Check and/or change filters every month. Dirty filters reduce efficiency, increase energy costs and can shorten the life of your system.
2. Have your system serviced by a qualified contractor every two to three years. If the unit is 10 years or older, consider having it serviced yearly.
3. Set thermostats to appropriate settings.

Insulate and Weather strip

Tighten up the house. It’s your main defense against heat and cool air loss. Ceiling insulation is cost effective. Wall insulation is usually advised only if you’re remodeling. Caulk and weather strip around windows, doors, fireplaces, cracks and plumbing penetrations to reduce the amount of air coming into or leaving your home. Older homes especially need an insulation and weather stripping check up.

Heating system

Your heating system, whether gas or electric, is your home’s biggest energy user during the winter. Most homes within MID are heated by natural gas. In rural areas not supplied with natural gas, homes will have propane furnaces or electric heat pumps.

Stay energy efficient

• Watch the thermostat setting. Recommended thermostat settings: while you’re awake--65 to 68 degrees and while you’re sleeping--55-60 degrees.
• Avoid closing more than one or two room registers (vents). This can damage your heating system.
• If you have an older furnace, have a pilot less ignition installed. It’s convenient--you won’t have shut off and re-start the pilot light. A pilot less ignition usually pays for itself in less than two years.
• Don’t use a portable electric heater in place of a central heating system. It is inefficient and expensive. A portable heater used six hours a day for 30 days can cost you $25. Instead, use it for short periods to heat a small space or a person.

Heat Pumps

A heat pump is an electric appliance that can heat as well as cool. It looks similar to a standard air conditioner. The difference is the addition of special reserving valves that allow the evaporative and condensing coils to reverse operation. Operated correctly, heat pumps can provide efficient heating and cooling.

In the cooling mode, the heat pump operates like an air conditioner. Heat is absorbed in the home and expelled outdoors. In the heating mode, the heat pump coils absorb heat from the outside and bring it indoors. Even on very cold days there is usable heat in the outside air.

There are differences when you compare the operation of a heat pump to a gas furnace:

• The temperature of the heated air coming out of the vents or registers from a heat pump tend to be lower than that of a gas furnace.
• To make up for the lower air temperature, the heat pump tends to run longer.
• More air may come out of the vents than with a gas furnace.
• A heat pump tends to be slower to respond to changes in thermostat settings.
• Avoid large setbacks in heat pump thermostat settings.
• Most heat pumps have resistive element heat strips built into them to supply additional heat during very cold periods (give a temperature range here). Heat strips are not as efficient as the normal heat pump mode of operation, so heat strip use should be kept to a minimum.
• To keep heat strip use to a minimum, do not set back a heat pump thermostat more than about four to six degrees before going to bed or going to work during the day if the home will be unoccupied.

Air Conditioning Systems

Central air conditioning makes life more comfortable during the summer, but it can quickly increase your MID bill also. The air conditioner and the central heating system use the most energy of all home appliances.

It pays to keep the air conditioner in excellent working condition. Each spring when the outside temperature is at least 70 degrees, turn on the air conditioner to see if it’s working properly. Then, follow the instruction manual to clean the unit. Schedule maintenance before the hot weather begins.

You can contract with a qualified contractor for several visits a year or just a yearly visit. A newer unit typically should be serviced at least every two to three years, while units over 10 years old may need yearly maintenance.

Follow these tips for even greater efficiency:

• In the spring, trim plants and shrubbery that might block air flow to the outside air conditioner unit.
• Change or clean the air conditioner filter monthly during the summer.
• Set the thermostat at 78 or higher when you’re in the house; 85 degrees when you’re away.
• Set the thermostat even one degree higher to reduce cooling costs by three percent.
• Keep doors and windows closed during the hottest part of the day.
• Position furniture away from cooling registers.
• Install sunshades (either shade screens or window film) on east, west and south windows. This reduces the amount of heat that gets into your home and the air conditioner’s operating time.
• Close drapes and blinds during the hottest part of the day.
• Avoid cooking, especially using the oven, during the late afternoon and early evening. Try a picnic, a salad or barbecuing on hot days.

Improve Efficiency of Existing Appliances

See also: Cost of Operating Home Appliances

Whole House Fans Circulating Fans Thermal Mass Windows Insulate, Caulk and Weather strip Fireplaces Swimming Pools Spas

Landscaping Hot water heaters Refrigerator/Freezer Range/Oven Washer/Dryer Lighting Terms You Might Want to Know

Whole House Fans

See also: Rebate information

A whole house fan can reduce air conditioning costs. It is a high velocity fan that is usually installed in the ceiling of a central hallway within a home. Outside air is drawn in through open windows. The air is then exhausted through the attic. The fan should be used only when the outside air temperature is less than the desired inside temperature.

A whole house fan works very well within the MID since morning and evening temperatures fall below 70 degrees on all but a few summer days. The cooler fresh air will cool all the thermal mass in your home. The cooled thermal mass will absorb heat well into the day, reducing air conditioning needs.
Most large improvement centers sell whole house fans. Proper installation is important and the assistance of a carpenter or an electrician may be required.
Home layout and adequate attic vent space are important considerations. Not all homes lend themselves to whole house fans. (rebate link)

Circulating Fans

Portable or ceiling fans can make you feel cooler. When you feel cooler, you can set the thermostat higher. Test shows that most people feel comfortable at 85 degrees if the air is circulating. So set the air conditioner thermostat at 82 degrees and put the fan on low speed. The circulating air makes you feel cooler. When you leave a room, turn off the fan.

Thermal Mass

Thermal mass is any building material within your home that has mass and the ability to absorb, store and release heat. This includes tiled counters and floors, concrete floors, masonry fireplaces, and sheet-rocked walls. When the thermal mass is cooled or heated, it will slowly absorb or release this heat when a temperature difference exists between the mass and the air around it. Thermal mass works best when exposed to the air. Placing large thick rugs over a tile floor insulates the mass and reduces its effectiveness.

How can you use thermal mass? Just open windows during summer nights or early morning hours when the outside temperature is cooler than the inside of your home. The air cools the thermal mass in your home. As temperatures rise, the cooled thermal mass absorbs the heat. This delays when you need to turn on the air conditioner.

In the winter, thermal mass works best if the sun shines directly on. The heat absorbed during the day is released slowly into the air and continues to warm the room after the sun goes down.

Windows

See also: Rebate information

Older windows are usually not very energy efficient. You might decide to replace older windows or you can use these ideas to reduce air conditioning and heating loss.

New windows do have advantages: improved appearance, less transmitted sound and increased energy efficiency. However, it is difficult to justify replacement of existing windows only because of the potential energy savings.

If you are considering a window retrofit, choose double pane windows, preferably with a non-conductive frame material such as wood or vinyl. Metal frames with thermal breaks are almost as effective. Compare quality and price when shopping for replacement windows.

Window efficiency:

• Install sunshades on windows that receive a lot of direct sunlight. The screens or window film reduce heat gain in your home. They do slightly darken a room, but will reduce cooling costs. (rebate)
• In the winter, preserve the heat in your home by keeping windows tightly closed. Draw the drapes or use window covers at night and on cold, cloudy days. On sunny winter days open drapes to take advantage of solar heat.
• Inspect window seals and caulking. Loose or missing caulk makes the heating and air conditioning system work much hard.
• Open windows in the morning and evenings to cool down the house.

Insulate, Caulk and Weather strip

Insulation, caulking and weather stripping are good defenses against heat loss or gain.
Resistance to heat flow by insulation material is measured by R-value. The greater the R-value, the more the energy savings. Most homes built since about 1978 have a minimum ceiling insulation value of R-19. This equals about six inches of fiberglass batt or loose fill cellulose insulations, the two most common insulating materials. A minimum wall insulation level of R-11 has been required in homes built after 1978.

Unless they are retrofitted, most older homes have no wall insulation and only minimal ceiling insulation. Adding wall insulation is generally not cost effective unless you are considering a major renovation. Ceiling insulation is more cost effective since about 60 percent of the heat within your home is lost through the ceiling. It is also relatively easy to install. MID recommends a ceiling insulation level of R-30 to R-38. Increasing ceiling insulation from the existing R-11 to R-30 can save you up to 35 percent on your heating and cooling costs.

A home with a raised wood floor should be insulated to an R-11 value. Expect to pay more per square foot to have floor insulation installed since it requires more expertise and is labor intensive.

You can also reduce the amount of hot or cold air entering your home by caulking and weather stripping around windows, doors, fireplaces, cracks and plumbing to prevent heated or cooled air escaping your home

Fireplaces

A fireplace is usually an inefficient way to heat your home. Its efficiency can be improved with

• Tight-fitting, closeable metal or glass doors covering the firebox opening,
• A combustion air intake with a tight-fitting damper to draw air from outside the building into the firebox,
• A tight-fitting flue damper with a readily accessible handle.

Before using the fireplace, open both the flue damper and the combustion air intake damper. Using the outside air for combustion and keeping the fireplace door closed reduces the amount of heated indoor air that goes up the chimney.

When you are not using the fireplace, close the flue damper, the outside combustion air intake damper, and the firebox doors.

An older fireplace often relies on indoor combustion air, so it’s a good idea to crack open a nearby window when using an older fireplace.

If you frequently burn firewood, consider the installation of a fireplace insert. This can provide greater heating efficiency. Use only well-aged firewood, which burns hotter and cleaner.

Swimming Pools

An older swimming pool has two pump motors, one for pool filter circulation operation and another for the pool sweep. Newer pools will use one pump motor to do both. If the filter circulation pump is not a part of a solar heating system, set the timer for the minimum time necessary to keep the water clear and sanitary. Set the timer to operate before 2 p.m. or after 9 p.m. Avoid the 2 to 9 p.m. window. It’s the hottest part of the day and power demand is the greatest.

If you need to replace a burned out pool pump motor, request the premium high efficiency type. This will reduce pumping costs and pay for itself over the life of the pump. A gas or electric pool heater is extremely expensive to operate. Instead, install a good solar water heating system. This can significantly increase the pool temperature and extend the swim season. A dark colored pool bottom helps absorb the sun’s heat and can raise the pool temperature several degrees.

See also: Your Pool Pump - How much does it cost to run?

Spas

A spa requires a lot of energy to heat and circulate the water. Your spa will be more energy efficient if it has

• A resistive elementary water heater
• Good insulation
• A tight fitting cover
• If a spa is not often used, then set back or turn off the water temperature thermostat when not in use. Then reset the thermostat before you use the spa. A 200 volt heater will heat the water about 10 degrees per hour while a 110 volt heater will heat water at about two to three degrees per hour.

Landscaping

Landscaping can make a difference in what it costs to heat and cool your home.

• Plant trees, shrubs and vines with leaves that fall off in the winter on the east, south and west sides. They’ll provide shade in the summer, but allow in sunshine in the winter.
• Position trees to shade windows now. When mature they can also the outside walls and roof.
• Consult with an expert about the right type and size of tree.
• Plant evergreens on the north side of the house to keep prevailing cold north winds from reaching your home.

Hot water heaters

Most hot water heaters within the MID operate with natural gas rather than electricity. Whether gas or electric, a hot water heater uses a lot of energy. It’s high on the energy use list—right after heating and air conditioning systems.

To reduce hot water heating costs:

• Set the water heater temperature to 120 degrees or low if you do not have a dishwasher or if your dishwasher has a water temperature booster. Otherwise, set it to 140 degrees or medium. Don’t turn on the dishwasher until it is full.
• If your water heater is more than 10 years old, install a hot water heater blanket around it. Heat loss will be reduced. Most newer water heaters have adequate internal insulation.
• If you need to replace a water heater, compare efficiency ratings. Even small efficiency increases can mean significant savings over the life of the water heater.
• Install low-flow showerheads and flow restrictors on all faucets.
• Insulate hot water pipes if they are accessible.

Refrigerator/Freezer

A refrigerator and freezer are larger users of electricity, usually about 15 percent of your electric bill. Follow these tips to keep costs down.

• Keep it clean. Defrost it regularly if it is not a frost-free model. More than a quarter of an inch of frost can make the appliance work harder. Clean the condenser coils three to four times a year. You’ll find the coils on the back or bottom of the unit. Clogged coils reduce the heat exchange ability of coils and increase compressor run time.
• Keep the door closed. Decide what you need before you open the door.
• Keep it full. A full freezer requires less energy to operate than an empty one. However, don’t pack contents too tightly in either the refrigerator or freezer. This prevents cold air from circulating properly.
• Test the seals. Fold a paper towel. Pull it out of the closed door. If there’s no resistance as you pull, you probably need new magnetic rubber seals around the door to keep the cold air in. Keep door seals clean.
• Unplug the second refrigerator. Is that second, seldom used, nearly empty refrigerator in the garage (not at all an energy efficient location) really necessary? If not, unplug it and save.

Range/Oven

What you cook in and how you cook can make a difference in energy costs.
· Use the right pot or pan. Pans with flared sides that are smaller than your rang burner let heat escape. Pans that are too big or have warped bottoms, food won’t cook evenly. Medium-weight aluminum pans are best for most foods. Save larger, heavier pans for foods that require slow cooking.

• Use pan lids.
• Pre-heat only for baked goods. Thaw foods before cooking.
• Plan all-oven meals that cook at the same time and temperature.
• Once water comes to a boil, turn off the burner. The water won’t get hotter if it boils longer.
• Keep the oven door closed. The oven loses about 25 degrees of heat every time you open the door.
• Keep the stove and oven clean. A stove free of grease and baked-on residue costs less to operate. It’s safer too.
• Use a microwave. It will add less heat and allow you to get out the kitchen more quickly.
• A small appliance such as an electric skillet or broiler-toaster oven uses less energy and doesn't heat the kitchen.

Washer/Dryer

Washing and drying clothes can use a lot of energy. The cost per load for an electric dryer is about 23 cents per load in the winter and 28 cents per load in the summer. Reduce energy use with these tips:

• Wash full loads. A small load uses almost as much energy as a large load.
• Sort by fabric, color and degree of soil. Use hot water only for whites, hard to clean items and sterilization. Use cold and warm water on everything else. Use a detergent that’s right for the water temperature.
• Don’t use too much detergent.
• Use the right cycle for the clothes being washed or dried.
• Clean the dryer filter after every use.
• Use a clothesline when you can. Solar energy is cheap!

Lighting

See also: Rebate information

Lighting is about 20 to 30 percent of your electric bill, so energy efficiency pays off.

Incandescent versus fluorescent

Incandescent and fluorescent lights are most often used in a home. Incandescent lamps are the more common screw-in bulb type. While relatively inexpensive to purchase, they are expensive to operate and have a short life.

A fluorescent light is four times more efficient. Today’s fluorescent lamps are not just for bathrooms and the kitchen. The compact fluorescent lights have a traditional screw-in base. They usually cost $8 to $20, but can save you over $40 in electricity over their useful life.

Lighting tips

• Select fixtures with fewer bulbs. A 100-watt incandescent bulb glows with nearly 50 percent more light than four 25-watt bulbs.
• Long-life bulbs are the least efficient of the incandescents. A compact fluorescent is a more energy efficient choice.
• Halogen lamps are efficient. They are more expensive, but they last about two to three times longer than standard lamps.
• Use daylight when possible.
• Turn off unnecessary lights.
• Keep light bulbs and fixtures clean so light levels are not reduced.
• Paint walls a light color.
• Use time clocks or photocells for outdoor safety/security lighting. The newer metal halide or sodium vapor fixtures and lamps are more efficient than fluorescent lighting for outdoor use.

Terms you might want to know

AFUE: Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. This is the method by which gas furnaces are rated for efficiency. The rating is in terms of a percentage. The greater the percentage, the more efficient the furnace. This method accounts for all energy and cycling losses.
Air Conditioner: Cooling equipment that cools the air using refrigerant to extract heat from the air.

BTU: British Thermal Unit. A measurement of the quantity of heat needed to raise the temperature of one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. One BTU is about equal to a single lit kitchen match. One kilowatt-hour of electricity equals 3,413 BTU's.

Compact Fluorescent: Refers to a type of fluorescent lamp. Compact fluorescents are small fluorescent lamps that can be used instead of screw-in incandescent bulbs. Compacts are high efficiency alternatives to incandescents. They are typically four times more efficient and last 10 times longer.

Dual-Pane Windows: A type of window in which two layers of glass are separated by a small air gap which acts as an insulator. Typical dual-pane windows are about twice as efficient as older single pane windows.

Energy Guide: Federally mandated rating labels that are affixed to major appliances. They give consumers a quick way to compare the average annual operating cost of a particular appliance with that of the most and least similarly sized appliance.

Fluorescent: A low-pressure mercury vapor discharge lamp in which a fluorescent coating (phosphor) transforms some of the ultraviolet energy generated into light. Fluorescent lighting is the most common type of lighting used in commercial applications. It is increasingly being used in residential applications due to its higher efficiency.

Heat Pump: An electric space conditioner that has the ability to heat as well as cool. In the cooling mode, a heat pump cools like a conventional air conditioner or refrigerator by removing heat from the inside air and delivering it to outside air. In the heating mode, the heat pump extracts or removes heat from the outside air and expels it indoors. Most common heat pumps extract or expel heat to the air although heat pumps can exchange heat with water or the ground (earth). Heat pumps are 2 to 3 times more efficient than the conventional electric resistance type heating.

Incandescent: Refers to the commonly used screw-in "bulb" type lighting source, which utilizes a heated filament inside of a glass bulb. They are generally very energy wasteful. A large portion of the electricity used by these bulbs produces heat, not useable light.

Kilowatt: A kilowatt (Kw) equals 1000 watts of electrical energy consumption. A kilowatt-hour (Kwh) is the energy created (or consumed) when power is used over time. One Kwh is equal to the energy of 10-100 watt light bulbs simultaneously burning for one hour.

Low-E Windows: A new high efficiency type of dual pane window in which the panes are coated with special low emissivity materials that cause radiant heat to bounce off windows rather than pass through the windows.

R-value: Measurement of a material's resistance to the flow of heat. R-values are used to differentiate the effectiveness of insulating materials. The greater the R-value, the better the insulating value of a material.

SEER: Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio measures air conditioner efficiency. SEER is defined as the average seasonal cooling output in BTU divided by the seasonal total energy consumed for an average U.S. climate. The greater the number, the more efficient the air conditioner.

Sunshades: Defined as shade screens or window films. Shade screens are a special type of screen which is placed over the outside of windows. They dramatically reduce the amount of heat gain through a window. Window films are special plastic films which adhere to windows and also reduce solar heat gain.

Title 24: Refers to the California State Administrative Code which contains residential building efficiency standards adopted originally in 1977.

Thermal Mass: The potential heat and cold storage capacity in a building material or system, usually referring to such "massive" building materials as tile or concrete floors, masonry or sheet-rock.